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The
Dogon people inhabit a very special, almost magical
place which is, quite probably, once of the most original
and unique in Mali.
Their traditions, beliefs and understanding of
the universe continue to fascinate visitors today almost
as much as they did the French ethnologist Marcel Griaule
over seventy years ago.
The publication of the work "God of the River",
in which Griaule recounts conversations held with an
old blind Dogon man, helped spread awareness of the
knowledge and beliefs of this exceptional people and
led many to ask the question: how on earth could a people
lacking any kind of astrological instruments know about
the existence of the companion star Sirius B long before
astronomers discovered it in 1884? Even its location,
running along the almost inaccessible Bandiagara Escarpment
between deep rocky canyons, is testimony to the remarkable
nature of Dogon Country, whose inhabitants purposefully
sought almost total isolation in order to preserve their
identity after abandoning their native land of Mandé.
The villages of Dogon Country conform to a strongly
symbolic order. They are structured in the form of an
anthropomorphic figure: the toguná or "house
of the word" and the forge are located at the head;
the giannas, where all the descendants of a common ancestor
live, are situated in the region of the chest; the houses
where women remain in isolation during their menstruation
stand where the hands should be; small altars represent
the main and female organs; and other lesser sanctuaries
are located at the feet.
Above the villages, built into the rock face, are the
old houses of the Tellem tribe, which the Dogon use
as tombs.
Irely is considered by some to be the most beautiful
and most interesting Dogon village, although Djiguibombo,
Soninke, Nombori and Banani also possess their own definite
charms.
The cultural and natural
value of the Bandiagara Escarpment has been recognised
by UNESCO, which declared it a World Heritage site in
1989.
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